I realize it could appear that I’m dragging this series on updating my master bathroom out unnecessarily. However, rest assured that I am getting these posts published more quickly than the work detailed within them was completed.
If you don’t believe me, just ask Dave. He’ll testify that he left on holiday mid-January with promises that he’d only have to traipse across the living room and back to the kid’s bathroom for “a couple of days”. Let the record show that poor man has logged an additional 2,682 steps in the name of ‘progress’.
BUT I didn’t want to rush the job and screw it up. Plus, I didn’t anticipate the sink and toilet mishaps. And I had to be absolutely certain one person really could do the job since that’s the way I planned to pitch the project.
Besides, I’m just helping him kick-start swimsuit season.
So, now that the baseboard trim and door casings are all removed and the cement backer board is sandwiched between two layers of thinset we can lay the first tile! Finally. Mix up your mortar, let it sit for 10 minutes, whipping it one last time for good measure.
Leave a 1/4″ gap from any outside walls, spread some mortar onto the floor then holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle (think of opening a hinged box halfway) pull it towards you, teeth down, to create straight lines in the mortar.
Scrape any extra mortar back in to your bucket. Press the tile down into the mud and slightly twist your wrist to set. The back is designed for suction; the twist locks it in place. Then wedge your trowel under a corner of the tile and pry it right back up.
Now, I swear I’m not being sadistic when I insist you do this. Really, I’ve got your floor’s long-term health in mind. Look at my test tile – do you think there’s enough mud to hold that sucker down for 15 years? Me neither.
I troweled on a bit more mortar, bit it and checked again. You want about 75% (or more) of the tile covered. I followed the line I drew out from the wall and laid more full-sized tiles. It’s best to work in small sections. Since my arms are short I was only able to lay 3 rows at a time.
I used 1/8″ spacers – 2 on every side of the tile – but you can go larger or smaller depending on your design. (Make sure you don’t have so much mortar oozing between the tiles that your spacers get stuck. If necessary, scrape out extra mud before inserting spacers. And keep a wet rag handy.)
After finishing a few rows, I grabbed a 1×3, laid it flat and tapped with the rubber mallet to level out the tiles across the row. Then I flipped it and repeated the process up and down each row. It takes a bit to find your groove at first but once you do this moves fairly quickly.
I found that I hated the feeling of the mortar (wet, sticky and sandy) so I had to constantly stop to wash my hands and rinse out my rag. And I got that crap everywhere. If you’re messy like me, don’t worry it’ll wipe off easily with a little water and elbow grease. It’s a little harder to get out of your hair, but doable.
When you come up against obstacles like the toilet flange and water supply line, you’ll need to cut the tile to fit. The easiest way to do this is to take (3) full-sized tiles. Lay the first on the backer board or use the last tile you set down. Set the second tile directly on top of the first. Now, take the third tile and place it as close to the obstacle as possible. Trace the end of Tile 3 onto Tile 2. This is the line you’ll follow when you cut.
If you’re working with a simple score and snap tool you’ll be able to cut the majority of your tiles (including those around the perimeter and up against the tub) using this trace method. To notch a small square out to fit snugly around the water line you would score the tile with a utility knife and use a pair of nippers to remove the rest.
But if you are fortunate enough to have a friend whose husband has a portable wet saw (thanks Ric!) you can get fancy flipping the tile around to make a ton of vertical cuts into the tile.
Who needs a mood ring when your ass announces your disposition? It’s fair warning to anyone who walks into the room while I’m working.
Tile cutting kicks up a lot of dust and debris. The water gets muddy quickly and dirty water is hard to work with. You’re going to want to regularly change out the reserve basin. Allow me to save you numerous trips back and forth to the tub and recommend having a shopvac on hand. I wish I would have thought of this on Day 1 of cutting.
Now you know why I was grumpy.
When you’ve finally laid the last tile, spend the money you saved doing it yourself on beer. Or wine. Or chocolate. Whatever, just treat yourself and get a good night’s sleep. The next day (the tile needs 24 hours to set up) mix up a batch or five of grout. (Sanded grout for ceramic, unsanded grout for glass. Sanded will scratch glass or porcelain tiles.)
While the grout sets up, remove all of your spacers. Then, vacuum and damp mop the floor. I swiped a hot rag over the tiles a few hundred times to make sure all of the mortar had been removed and any debris was gone.
Use a rubber float to slop the grout onto the tile. Push and pull across the tiles diagonally to fill the joints with grout. Every. Single. Joint. I got through this part by thinking of all the cute tank tops I’m going to rock this summer.
two four beers later, you’ll be ready to wipe down the tiles.
This part will undoubtedly feel like it’s taking the longest amount of time yet. It is. Keep going. After the residual grout and haze is removed, it needs 12-hours to cure enough before resetting the toilet.
My arms required twice that amount of time to return to full use.
This post is part of a series. Read the other parts: