02 Mar

Master Bath Reveal & Project Breakdown

Master Bathroom Reveal

When I decided to make over the master bathroom I set three basic guidelines for myself. I was determined to do all of the work on my own, keep the material costs down and finish in a respectable amount of time. I’m quite happy to report that I accomplished all (3) of these goals. {mostly}

I kicked off the project by removing all of the wood trim, baseboards and door casings; toilet, sinks, countertop and wall mirror. Next I prepped and laid the ceramic tile floor. I installed a custom laminate counter and reset the sinks before building up the wall with wainscot panelling. Then I installed new mirrors and reinstalled the toilet.

The wall on either side of the original counter was marred from the side splashes and had to be repaired.

Minor Drywall Repair

Figuring out the transition between the bedroom carpet and bathroom tile proved tricky. I had to scrap the carpet-to-ceramic threshold I originally planned to use (the profile wasn’t quite right) and opt for a wood ‘t’ bar style instead. The main door needed to be under cut slightly so it would shut.

Doorway transition

And then all that was left was the clean up!

Before & After Photos

entrance before after

vanity before after

toilet before after

Schedule: 3 weeks (roughly)

Some days I worked 8-10 hours while others I didn’t set foot in the room. On average, I logged 3-5 hours a day. This doesn’t include how long it took me to clear the ‘debris’ and tools from the workspace – mainly because I still haven’t finished that yet.

Labor: I performed 99.9% of the work myself.

There were a few times I requested assistance: To lift the mirror up and over the sink faucets (I was still standing on the sink when I detached it from the wall so I had to have extra hands to hold it while I dismounted) and carry it into the bedroom; To set the toilet in place (I had to lay my head on the ground and see what I was doing wrong after it leaked all over the floor); To shut off the electrical (because that’s what you get for working from home honey); and for photo ops.

Budget:

Material Cost Breakdown

I always shop at Menards because they have a forever return policy and awesome rebates. Over the course of this project I took advantage of an 11% rebate, a 14% in-store savings and a 20% off whatever fits in the paper bag sale. I just checked and there’s a $41.34 rebate headed my way which brings this project to a final total of $515.71.

If you deduct the $15.00 for the frameless oval mirrors that instigated this whole project I’m slightly over my original targeted budget. Considering those mirrors are on clearance for $60 each, I’ll take the hit.

I’m pretty sure I’ll recoup the $0.71 when we sell.

Bathroom fixtures

Chocolate brown rug

Now, I’m off to tackle the next project (and by that I mean clean up my mess). Seriously, it’s a never-ending process. I don’t think I’ll ever have this entire house clean all at once.

messy bedroom

But at least it keeps me out of trouble.

~dee

Want to see how this project came together? Click the thumbnails below for details.

operation demolition   Operation Countertop   How to Install Tile Install Ceramic Tile   DIY Beadboard Wall

28 Feb

Oval Mirrors & Wall Panels

DIY Beadboard Wall

Imagine finding the perfect accessory. Let’s say it’s a gorgeous drop pendant necklace. The center stone is your favorite gem – the perfect size and shape.

And let’s say that the pricetag on this particular necklace is way, way, way below what it normally retails for. Would that be ample reason to pick it up even if it meant hunting down a new shirt to pair with it? What if you also had to pick up a new pair of jeans and then find the perfect shoes as well?

How much would you spend on a new outfit to compliment a great bargain accessory?

It’s no secret that I’m not a fashion mogul. I consider it a red carpet day if I trade my pjs in for jeans. So this is a cinch for me to answer. But if you switch it up just a bit and trade out the necklace for a mirror and the jeans for a countertop and then swap out the shoes for a new floor, well, things get a little more difficult.

I don’t tend to allocate much, if any, cash towards my wardrobe. I’m still sporting yoga pants from high school (back when we called them stretch pants) with cartoon characters on them. And the last time I bought new shoes I paid with retail Monopoly money at the check out (Kohls cash anyone?) But when it comes to my home’s aesthetic? I can usually justify a few bucks for some new bling.

Especially when it adds to the resale value.

From the get-go I’ve hated the enormous wall-mount mirror in our master bathroom.

oversized wall mirror

Early on, I tried to disguise it’s size with a wood trim frame. When that didn’t quite work I thought adding a shelf might provide just enough distraction for me to survive the handful of years we planned to be here. I was getting desperate when I actually considered building cubby shelves *over* the mirror, straight up the center.

So when I came across someone selling a pair of these crazy cheap frameless oval tilt mirrors I didn’t think twice.

oval frameless mirror

I hopped in my car and drove 90 minutes round trip to get them. Truly, I was 20 miles down the road before I even had an address to plug into the GPS. That’s how much I hated that overbearing looking glass. I was not sad to see it go.

Simply swapping the one out for the other two would have prettied the room up a tad. Sorta like like putting lipstick on a pig. Instead, I tucked the mirrors aside and proceeded to rip the bathroom apart. When the time came to address the condition of the bare wall above the sink, the simple solution was to install wainscot wood panels.

I opted for unfinished 3/8″ knotty pine wainscot panels. I didn’t want to add much depth to the wall. I didn’t want to remove much cash from my pocket. I had just over 25 sq. ft. of surface to cover so (3) packs of the 8′ boards would do the job with pieces left over for other projects.

Installing individual pieces of wood vertically is a pretty straight forward task. Since wainscot is designed to snap together in a tongue and groove fashion, it’s a great solution for covering ugly or slightly damaged wall surfaces ; none of the original wall will be seen once the installation is complete.

First I measured from the top of the new countertop to the ceiling. Then I put the panels on the chop saw and cut them down to size before priming and painting them white.

find wall center

After measuring to find the center of the wall, I built from the middle out with the scrap wood to dry fit my design. I was *this close* to being able to put (17) panels up for a perfect fit. I assumed I’d need to rip off the last board’s tongue anyhow so an extra 1/8″ wasn’t a big deal to remove as well.

dry fit wainscot

Part of the reason I opted to wainscot the wall instead of installing board and batten like in my living room, was because the back wall had bowed slightly during settling. Or maybe the sub-par builders of this house meant to do that. Either way, it was nothing that a few well-placed shims wouldn’t correct.

add lower wall trim

After securing the lower trim runner, I had Dave run down and flip the electrical breaker so I could remove the light sconces.

remove light sconce

Then I sweet talked him into playing photographer. I applied construction adhesive to the back of the wood panel…

add adhesive to panel

and slid it over the tongue of the board beside it. Tapping lightly with a mallet, I worked my way up the height of the panel.

tap beadboard

Then I made certain the line was level before gluing up the next board.

check level and tap

I shot a few brad nails into the panel to make sure it was secure.

brad nail to secure

And replaced the light fixtures before turning the power back on.

install beadboard

The cap moulding that covers the top of the wainscot is designed to lay flush against the wall. If I was doing a traditional beadboard wall installation that’s exactly how I would have finished it off but since I was at the ceiling I decided to tilt the cap and set it like crown moulding.

install crown molding

As with every project I undertake, there’s bound to be tiny gaps here and there in the finished product. But that’s nothing that a bead of caulk won’t fix.

gaps in wainscot

Once I had caulked all of the seams, filled all of the nail holes and rolled on a final coat of paint {or three} it was time to install the mirrors.

Dave and I agreed that as pretty as the brushed nickel pivot arms were they didn’t work with our chrome fixtures so I removed them and installed the mirrors flush on the wood paneling. I do plan to repurpose those metal arms elsewhere though, don’t you worry!

mirror installation

Wrapping up this part of the project meant there were only a few minor things to finish before the whole bathroom overhaul was complete.

It took longer than planned to put the mirrors to use but when I look into them I think o O (wow. I did this).

…and that it might be time to update my wardrobe.

How to Install Wainscot Wall Paneling

1. Measure for wall center {side to side}.
2. Measure for board height {top to bottom}.
3. Make all necessary wood cuts.
4. Turn off power & remove any electrical components.
5. Prepare wall surface if necessary.
6. Prefinish wood if desired.
7. Apply adhesive to panel back and press onto wall.
8. Tap into place with rubber mallet.
9. Secure with brad / finish nails.
10. Repeats Steps 7 through 9 until all panels are installed.
11. Install cap moulding trim. {If working around a room install 1/4 round trim at corners to cover panel seams.}
12. Caulk all seams.
13. Fill nail holes.
14. Touch up paint and/or seal as necessary.

18 Feb

Ceramic Tile Flooring

Install Ceramic Tile

I realize it could appear that I’m dragging this series on updating my master bathroom out unnecessarily. However, rest assured that I am getting these posts published more quickly than the work detailed within them was completed.

If you don’t believe me, just ask Dave. He’ll testify that he left on holiday mid-January with promises that he’d only have to traipse across the living room and back to the kid’s bathroom for “a couple of days”. Let the record show that poor man has logged an additional 2,682 steps in the name of ‘progress’.

BUT I didn’t want to rush the job and screw it up. Plus, I didn’t anticipate the sink and toilet mishaps. And I had to be absolutely certain one person really could do the job since that’s the way I planned to pitch the project.

Besides, I’m just helping him kick-start swimsuit season.

So, now that the baseboard trim and door casings are all removed and the cement backer board is sandwiched between two layers of thinset we can lay the first tile! Finally. Mix up your mortar, let it sit for 10 minutes, whipping it one last time for good measure.

Test the first tile

Leave a 1/4″ gap from any outside walls, spread some mortar onto the floor then holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle (think of opening a hinged box halfway) pull it towards you, teeth down, to create straight lines in the mortar.

Scrape any extra mortar back in to your bucket. Press the tile down into the mud and slightly twist your wrist to set. The back is designed for suction; the twist locks it in place. Then wedge your trowel under a corner of the tile and pry it right back up.

Check grout

Now, I swear I’m not being sadistic when I insist you do this. Really, I’ve got your floor’s long-term health in mind. Look at my test tile – do you think there’s enough mud to hold that sucker down for 15 years? Me neither.

Use enough grout on tile

I troweled on a bit more mortar, bit it and checked again. You want about 75% (or more) of the tile covered. I followed the line I drew out from the wall  and laid more full-sized tiles. It’s best to work in small sections. Since my arms are short I was only able to lay 3 rows at a time.

I used 1/8″ spacers – 2 on every side of the tile – but you can go larger or smaller depending on your design. (Make sure you don’t have so much mortar oozing between the tiles that your spacers get stuck. If necessary, scrape out extra mud before inserting spacers. And keep a wet rag handy.)

Lay tile in small sections

After finishing a few rows, I grabbed a 1×3, laid it flat and tapped with the rubber mallet to level out the tiles across the row. Then I flipped it and repeated the process up and down each row. It takes a bit to find your groove at first but once you do this moves fairly quickly.

Level ceramic tiles

I found that I hated the feeling of the mortar (wet, sticky and sandy) so I had to constantly stop to wash my hands and rinse out my rag. And I got that crap everywhere. If you’re messy like me, don’t worry it’ll wipe off easily with a little water and elbow grease. It’s a little harder to get out of your hair, but doable.

Lay full tiles first

When you come up against obstacles like the toilet flange and water supply line, you’ll need to cut the tile to fit. The easiest way to do this is to take (3) full-sized tiles. Lay the first on the backer board or use the last tile you set down. Set the second tile directly on top of the first. Now, take the third tile and place it as close to the obstacle as possible. Trace the end of Tile 3 onto Tile 2. This is the line you’ll follow when you cut.

Quick trick for measuring tiles

If you’re working with a simple score and snap tool you’ll be able to cut the majority of your tiles (including those around the perimeter and up against the tub) using this trace method. To notch a small square out to fit snugly around the water line you would score the tile with a utility knife and use a pair of nippers to remove the rest.

But if you are fortunate enough to have a friend whose husband has a portable wet saw (thanks Ric!) you can get fancy flipping the tile around to make a ton of vertical cuts into the tile.

4" portable wet saw

Who needs a mood ring when your ass announces your disposition? It’s fair warning to anyone who walks into the room while I’m working.

Cut tile around flange

Tile cutting kicks up a lot of dust and debris. The water gets muddy quickly and dirty water is hard to work with. You’re going to want to regularly change out the reserve basin. Allow me to save you numerous trips back and forth to the tub and recommend having a shopvac on hand. I wish I would have thought of this on Day 1 of cutting.

Shop vac wet saw

Now you know why I was grumpy.

lay ceramic tile

When you’ve finally laid the last tile, spend the money you saved doing it yourself on beer. Or wine. Or chocolate. Whatever, just treat yourself and get a good night’s sleep. The next day (the tile needs 24 hours to set up) mix up a batch or five of grout. (Sanded grout for ceramic, unsanded grout for glass. Sanded will scratch glass or porcelain tiles.)

Mix grout in bucket

While the grout sets up, remove all of your spacers. Then, vacuum and damp mop the floor. I swiped a hot rag over the tiles a few hundred times to make sure all of the mortar had been removed and any debris was gone.

Float grout on tile

Use a rubber float to slop the grout onto the tile. Push and pull across the tiles diagonally to fill the joints with grout. Every. Single. Joint. I got through this part by thinking of all the cute tank tops I’m going to rock this summer.

Approximately two four beers later, you’ll be ready to wipe down the tiles.

Wet sponge over tile

This part will undoubtedly feel like it’s taking the longest amount of time yet. It is. Keep going. After the residual grout and haze is removed, it needs 12-hours to cure enough before resetting the toilet.

My arms required twice that amount of time to return to full use.

~dee

This post is part of a series. Read the other parts:

How to Install Tile   Operation Countertop   operation demolition

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17 Feb

Prep for Tile Flooring

Prep floor for tile

Once upon a time there was an ugly linoleum floor.

Long, long ago in a bathroom far away…

Hickory dickory door,
I hate my linoleum floor.
Backer board down,
Trowel around,
Crap vinyl I’ll see no more.

I might have sniffed a bit too much pipe dope working on the leaky sink. Or maybe I’ve spent too much time confined to this 10′ x 10′ space. I’m starting to lose my mind. Good thing my sense of humor is in tact.

Continuing my pursuit of a ‘Property Virgin Approved’ master bathroom, I got to work prepping the existing sheet vinyl with cement board. I searched around the web to see what the pros said about installation. Some said you could just screw it down. Others insisted you must trowel on the mortar before securing with special cement coated screws.

Measure and cut cement board

Not a single one suggested cutting the 5′ long sheets in half. I suppose they didn’t expect it to be a 5’1″ chick lugging the pieces across the room.

I bet the folks over at Pampered Chef don’t expect their whisks to be used to mix up mud either.

Hand mix mortar

But I find it works smashingly for the task.

Screw backer board down

I installed 1/4″ green board over mortar with screws set every 6″ (roughly). I started off cutting the sheets with a drywall saw but quickly traded that out for a utility knife. It was much easier to score and snap the backer board. The saw kicked up way too much dust and was difficult to use.

Cover seams with mesh tape and mortar

Also up for internet debate was the use of mesh tape over the seams. Homes settle and since ours is < 10 years old, it’s safe to assume it’s still getting situated. The back wall (where the toilet sits) is an exterior wall and I know the builders didn’t over-insulate so, I went ahead and forked over the extra cash for piece of mind.

Before installing the backer board in the second half of the bathroom, I had to finish some residual demolition. Since I left the door jambs in place at the entrance and linen closet doors I had to use my new toy.

When Sonne was here last summer she cleaned up the trim in my office. Turns out an oscillating tool is perfect for carving out just enough wood to slip a ceramic tile in place. This trick saved me the hassle of removing/reinstalling the door jamb and stop.

How to Cut Door Frames without Removal

Cut around doors

1. Set the backer board and tile against the door jamb and trace the top of the tile.

Saw cut door jamb

2. Cut the wood along the line with the oscillating tool. (Make sure you’re wearing eye protection and don’t cut too deep that you’re compromising the wall studs.)

Install tile under door jamb

3. Double check that the tile fits snugly. Recut as necessary.

I skim-coated the entire floor to level and cover all of the exposed screw heads.

Skim coat floor

Note: Don’t skimp and use regular screws to secure your underlayment. They will rust and compromise the overall substructure of your tile installation.

I let the floor dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Ceramic Yoga: Finding Center

Measure room to find center

I spent quite a while trying to figure out where to start the tile. When you’re working in a large, square room it’s simple. You’d measure east to west and then north to south marking the intersection point. That would ensure most of the visual surface area was covered with full-sized tiles.

But what do you do when your room is cut in half by a wall and pocket door?

assess the situation

I chucked the professional advice and decided to wing it.

Dry fit tiles first

Since I was working with smaller tiles I went ahead and laid them out to get a feel for the finished space. I was able to manipulate the design pattern (grab tiles from different boxes to mix up the color/grain) and see just how much cutting I was going to need to do.

Make changes to tile pattern

All the measuring and calculations in the world won’t provide the same result as a dry run.

Check tile position often

As I worked my way from the water closet to the vanity area I noticed the tiles starting to ‘tip’. Sure enough, there was a 1/4″ discrepancy between the walls. Since I wasn’t interested in reframing and hanging drywall, I opted to tweak a row of tiles to compensate.

It’s a creative fix that you’d only notice if you were on your hands and knees on the floor. Even then you’d need tools to know for sure.

…and a solid excuse for being in that position to begin with.

~dee

This post is part of a series. Read the other parts here:

Install Ceramic Tile   Operation Countertop   operation demolition    

14 Feb

New Countertop Installation

Install new counter

Sometimes, I give credit where it is not due.

When I was hanging out in the Kitchen Design Center at Menards, ordering a new bathroom countertop, I opted out of the pricey ‘installation kit’. Thirty dollars for a bag of super glue, caulk and screws did not seem like a wise way to spend my money. Instead, I picked up a sleeve of Power Grab. I always have caulk on hand and figured I’d just reuse the anchor bolts already holding the existing countertop in place.

I should have known better.  There were no anchor bolts installed.

how to remove a countertop

On the bright side, I recoup’ed the time wasted waiting for the kids to pitch in to remove the mirror and moved right along with the countertop demolition. It took one solid whack underneath the counter’s lip to lift it up.

You’d think I would be pleased with the builder’s thriftiness; with their opting to repurpose rouge pieces of particle board as bracing. But you’d be wrong. There’s a fine line between being resourceful and being cheap.

Before I worked out a suitable solution, I wanted to be sure the new countertop fit.

measure countertop

As per usual, it didn’t. It wasn’t so much that my measurements were off as it was that the walls were no longer plumb and square (assuming they ever were). Along the left side a good 1/4″ difference grew from the front to the back of the countertop.

It was at this point that I was thankful I’d also opted out of the $30.00 ‘template fee’. Yeah, taking my measurements, plotting them in CAD and mailing me a printout to place over my existing set up to confirm I’d measured correctly just seemed haphazardly spendy. Even if the pre-cut sink holes did line up perfectly, it still wouldn’t have addressed the skewed angle required on the edge (something I couldn’t spring for as an option).

Five bucks for a laminate jig saw blade was obviously the right decision.

measure support shims

In the midst of this project, my girlfriend’s king sized bed collapsed. Turns out shoddy workmanship runs rampant in these parts. After fitting proper frame supports under her mattress and boxspring, I hung on to the broken plywood pieces. They proved perfect bracing for the cabinet base.

check level

I double checked that the countertop would sit level and took to the bedroom floor.

secure supports

I glued and screwed the plywood to the counter’s backside after pre-drilling to avoid splitting the wood. A word of caution: tape off your drill bit to keep from punching through the face of the laminate top.

secure countertop

Now here is where my builders could learn a lesson. Once you have the countertop in place and have confirmed it’s level, secure it to the base by screwing up through the corner bracing into the wood supports. They were halfway there by tacking adhesive sparingly to the cabinet base. Life is short, live recklessly and use more glue.

set countertop glue

Load heavy items on top to help the glue set up overnight. If you’re working with a solid surface top, remember to cover it to prevent scratches.

layout sink hole

Remember that expensive template I decided to forgo? You can accomplish the same results with a grocery bag, pencil and ruler. I cheated and traced out the sink hole from the old countertop. Then I eyeballed where I wanted it to go on the new one (lining it up with the center of the cabinet doors below), made sure it was straight and taped it down. (Later, when I was fighting with my plumbing I realized I could have downloaded the schematic from Kohler’s website. Good to know for future reference.)

score countertop for sink

I scored the outline with a utility knife. Because I had to do this twice with one template, I left gaps in the paper cut-out at the top/bottom/sides. That way, I could lift and move it to the second sink area without destroying my template. Smarter, not harder, that’s how I work.

chalkline

I couldn’t really see the line I’d scored so I grabbed a piece of chalk and traced it around a few times. That made it simple to follow with the jig saw (and easier to clean up than pencil would have been.)

countertop cutting tools

Now, here is the hidden gem in this tutorial. Before you set to cutting out your sink holes, grab a piece of scrap wood (it should measure longer than the sink radius). Pre-drill it right into the countertop making sure you’re attaching it to the waste. Do not drill outside your chalkline unless you want to drop another chunk of change on a new, new countertop.

cut laminate countertop

Drill a 1/4″ pilot hole inside the line to start your saw cut. Grab your jig saw and follow the line halfway around before securing the scrap wood.

sink cutout trick

Since gravity will work against you, this trick provides top-up support and eliminates having a helper hold up the countertop from below. You can single-handedly complete the sink hole cut without worry that you’ll damage the new top. (it won’t fall through!)

easy cut laminate sink

I easily lifted the scrap piece out and moved on to repeat the process on Sink #2.

Feeling pretty proud of myself for having done the entire project on my own to this point, I heaved the sink into place and reattached the plumbing pipes.

insert sink

And then this happened.

plumbing gasket leak

Because, apparently, I can’t come up with enough reasons to drink on my own.

~dee

This post is part of a series. Click to read the other parts:

operation demolition    How to Install Tile

11 Feb

Preparing to Remodel a Bathroom

Demo a bathroom

If you had walked through our house two and a half years ago, this is what the master bath would have looked like. And maybe you’d have thought it wasn’t so bad. But since our last house was built by the same builder using this standard finish schedule I was over the cheap laminate countertop, full-wall mirror and sheet vinyl flooring two seconds after snapping these photos. In fact, that house even had the same paint color in the kid’s bathroom.

So, at least the builder was consistent.

Builder Basic Master Bath

Before moving in I had my painting contractors work their magic to brighten the space up but the massive mirror irked me.

Mirror Frame Options

I tried to make do by installing a simple wood trim frame. I hated it. So, I removed that and replaced it with a different style frame and makeshift shelf. I didn’t like that either but I had no Plan B in place so we learned to live with it.

Don’t ask why we didn’t have the flooring contractors install laminate wood in the master bath when they were here the first, second or third time to do the rest of the house because I couldn’t tell you. But the more I watched Property Virgins I was convinced no one would buy our house because they’d never be able to reconcile why we just stopped upgrading at the en suite door.

Economy sheet vinyl flooring

So while Dave gathered equipment for his annual after-Christmas ski trip, I rounded up my trim molding removal tools.

Demo Prep Tools

The trick to removing baseboard trim and shoe moulding is to work your mini-prybars between the wall and the wood slowly. Smack the metal too hard and you’re bound to split the wood and/or damage the drywall. Incrementally work your way down the length of the trim popping each nail as you go. This is where the appropriate playlist is paramount. At this stage, steer clear of hip hop and dance music; opt for blues or classic country instead. Your fingers and finishings will thank you.

Now, I like to mark both the trim and wall so that as pieces are moved from room to room over the next few days I can easily put the trim puzzle back together. And since I can’t be certain these corners were truly mitered on a 45 it helps eliminate any guesswork to square up the door frames and trim.

numbered trim

Be careful with the brad nails sticking out of the wood. I like to nip the ends off and scrape any paint before reinstalling. I don’t recommend pulling the nail through as you’ll risk marring the face of the wood trim.

remove trim

Once all of the trim is out of the way you’ll have to decide what to do about your doors. In this small space I had (3) to deal with and since Dave was out of town I’d be flying solo on any removal, undercutting and reinstallation if the new ceramic tile didn’t clear the space allowed underneath.

So I put my thinking cap on and performed several difficult scientific calculations…

Check Under Door Height

…to determine that I would (probably) get by without incident. (Meh, close enough.)

And then I shut off the water supply and removed the toilet.

remove toilet

And took a paint brush to the white spots around the room.

Remove wall mirror

The oversized mirror was amazingly simple to remove. Ok, what’s truly amazing is how little adhesive was used to keep that monstrosity up the last seven years. I’m disappointed I didn’t video the 45 seconds it took to pry jimmy it loose from the wall. I kid you not, it took longer for me to get the boy and his friend off the PS3 to help lift the mirror over the faucet handles.

In hindsight, I probably should have removed the sinks first.

remove sink

…since I’ll never get those precious five minutes back. Lesson learned.

Laminate Counter Glue

Speaking of, let this be a lesson; it takes more than (3) dollops of contractor adhesive to properly secure a 5′ laminate counter to a cabinet base.

Base Cabinet Support Shims

You know, like quality support bracing.

~dee

Click to read Part 2:

Operation Countertop